How to create perfect brows
- Next1 of 11Courtesy of ELLE
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The Shape of Things1 of 11
By Emily Hebert for ELLE
With clients like Rihanna and several Saudi princesses, Sania Vucetaj knows a thing or two about crafting luxurious, groomed arches. "Full eyebrows are beautiful and exotic-looking," says the sought-after brow expert. For those not blessed with thickness, however, brow guru Vucetaj says having the right shape is most important: "You can use makeup to add depth and fill in gaps." Here's how to use tweezers and pencil to your advantage.
Get a Good Start2 of 11
Visualize your brow shape before you begin. “The front of the brow should align with the upper bridge of your nose,” says Vucetaj.
Set Guidelines3 of 11
"Fill in your brows before you pluck," says Vucetaj. "This way, you won't overdo it." Using her uniquely slanted Angled Mechanical Brow Pencil at a perpendicular angle for the front of the brow—the widest part—Vucetaj turned it sideways at the arch for a thinner line at the end. "The arch should be three-quarters of the way back from the nose bridge," notes Vucetaj. "From there, the tail should taper off and follow the angle of the eye."
Brush Up4 of 11
After drawing your desired eyebrow shape, use a nylon brush to coax hairs up for lift and volume.
Banish Strays5 of 11
Once you've finished filling in and brushing, remove unwanted hairs with slant-tipped tweezers. Vucetaj says to only tweeze underneath—not above—the brow: "If you accidentally tweeze into the arch, it brings the brow down instead of lifting it up." She recommends stepping back from the mirror periodically to check your work ("When you zero in on the brow too much, you lose perspective"). Thinking about threading or waxing? Vucetaj isn't a fan. "These methods pull and tug on the delicate eyelid area," she says. "And they don't offer the level of precision that tweezing does."
See Open Spaces6 of 11
"The bottom portion of the brow is the most crucial area to fill," says Vucetaj, who held her tweezers against the front of the brow and inner arch "to see what was missing."
Mind the Gap7 of 11
Using her pencil, Vucetaj added pigment in the area between the front-end and inner arch. Vucetaj likes her self-designed pencil because it's mostly powder, with a minimal amount of wax. "Overly waxy brow pencils go on dark and heavy, and can stick and clump," she says.
Trim the Excess8 of 11
"You don't want to trim your brows unless you absolutely have to," says Vucetaj. "Feathery eyebrows are full and beautiful—the more you trim, the harsher your hairs will grow in." That said, Vucetaj notes that sometimes a little trimming is OK. How to tell if you need it: using a nylon brush, comb hairs upward at an angle, in the direction of the brow. If any hairs are noticeably longer than others or hang over the edge, snip sparingly.
Retrace Your Steps9 of 11
"After you’ve plucked and trimmed, the penciled-in makeup will likely have faded," says Vucetaj. "Go back and fill in where you need to, then begin work on your other brow."
Mirror Image10 of 11
Repeat the same techniques on brow number two and keep in mind that "for a symmetrical look, you want the tops of the arches to be at the same point," says Vucetaj.
Take a Powder11 of 11
Once you're finished, dust a bit of translucent powder over arches to set the brow pencil. "This will help soak up the natural oils on your skin and keep your eyebrows looking freshly groomed," says Vucetaj.